Help on Tele2, tariffs, questions

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You will have to spend a little time and learn important information on the topic. First you need to download Dec Tracker - an indispensable program for Harstone. It is needed to control your deck. Then, once you understand a little about its interface, the time will come when you come across the concept Arena helper Hearthstone. This is where the most exciting games take place (from my own experience, I can say that it’s really cool here).

One of the most important and noticeable features of this arena is tantamount to one piece of advice from a wise and experienced player. You will be able not only to see how to play professionally, but in a short time you yourself will show the same, or maybe much better, results. And choosing cards for decks will no longer be such a problem.

Arena Helper Hearthstone

Experienced players will immediately say that you can download Dec Tracker only on the official website https://github.com/. But we still spent literally a couple of minutes of our time and uploaded the necessary archive to our page. So that you don’t worry, don’t search and don’t do many other things. The previous material already contains this link. But for greater comfort, we will leave the necessary archive below in this article.

But oh well, you’ll quickly figure it out on your own. Download, open (no need to install) and immediately start using this program.

But they are still waiting for the most important question - and this Arena Helper Hearthstone, which allows you to discover a game without boundaries.

You can talk about this parameter a lot and for a long time. But we will specifically leave all the most interesting things for you.

The only thing is organizational issues. The Helper Arena will be shaped like a window. Where you will first select the desired hero. And then do a lot of useful things.

When choosing cards for the Arena, many are accustomed to being guided by rating tables of famous players. For example, card ratings are very popular Trump . After release Naxxramasa I began to often notice numerous requests to various players and resources to express their opinions on new cards. But for some reason the matter dragged on, and those who were accustomed to being guided by other people’s assessments found themselves in a stupor; in fact, they were “afraid” of the cards from the add-on and ignored them in the Arena. It seems like it’s better to take proven cards than to take risks with something untested.

Now they've come out Goblin and gnomes » - more than 120 new cards. And again doubts and torment of choice!

In my opinion, it’s better to figure out on your own why certain cards are considered strong, and then there won’t be any special problems with this. You will be able to adequately evaluate any unfamiliar card, build a strong deck and, with your huge advantage, score 12 cherished victories.

1. Deck type - slow or aggro

First things first peaks (this is the name for choosing a card from three offered) you need to decide what kind of deck you want to get in the end - slow or aggressive. It’s better to stick to one idea throughout all the peaks so that it doesn’t turn out to be a hodgepodge.

It must be said that all kinds of card ratings assume that you are putting together a deck with which, with the help of strong creatures, you will increase your advantage on the table, kill all the enemy’s creatures, and then you will begin to brutally beat the hero himself. In the Arena this is actually more than reasonable.

There is little information about aggro in the Arena, so I will dwell on this in more detail. I’ll say right away that it’s a little more difficult to build and play such a deck due to some instability and the popularity of AoE in the Arena. So, if this version of the game is not to your liking, just move on to the next point.

If, for example, when playing for Maga If you first took Ice Arrow, then Mana Wyrm, Fireball, some Wonderful Dragons and Vanguard Squires, then it is obvious that you are better off continuing to lean into a fast and hard style: recruiting “damage-dense” spells and good cheap creatures. Even everyone’s favorite Fire Wave will be a little superfluous here, although you can take one for backup.

The same is the case with other heroes. Starting to collect Bloody Marsh Lizards, Blood Imps and Fire Imps for Warlock , in the future, do not be too tempted by Infernals and Battle Golems - they will only harm you and will gather dust in your hand. If you are aiming for aggro, then ideally you should end the fight on turns 7-8.

This, of course, does not mean that you should ignore strong creatures like Ogre Boulderfist - they will be good finishers. But you shouldn’t get carried away with them. However, you don’t need to draw 20 cards for 1 mana either. Just give preference to good cards cheaper than 5-6 mana, not forgetting the excellent ones for 6 like Vanguard Commander.

Two important things for Arena aggro decks: buffer creatures and card draw. All this is valuable in slow decks, but in aggro it is simply vital. Therefore, pay close attention to Sin'dorei Cleric, Dark Iron Dwarf, Defender of Argus, Dire Wolf Leader, or Treasure Collector, Servant of Pain, Dwarf Inventor, Sprint and other similar cards.

Not all classes are suitable for aggro decks in the Arena. The following classes make good aggro decks:

— Mage : Thanks to Frostbolt, Mana Wyrm, Fireball, Sorcerer's Apprentice, Water Elemental, Goblin Blastmage, you can deal a lot of damage for a small amount of mana, while keeping your creatures on the board.

— Robber : Aggressive by the very nature of the class thanks to excellent damage spells (Backstab, Eviscerate, Deadly Poison) and draw (Poison Shot, Sprint), as well as SI:7 Agent, Brotherhood Leader and good weapons.

— Warlock : class ability will allow you to field a lot of cheap creatures.

— Hunter : Thanks to the class ability, Tenetnik, Command "Take!" , Volley , Unleash the Dogs , Houndmaster , Possessed Creeper , High-Maned Savannah and good weapons have stable damage and a sufficient number of cards on the field. But in general it performs rather poorly in the Arena due to its heavy dependence on the cards drawn.

It would be possible to include here Warrior with his "dash" cards and weapons, but he is too reliant on whether they come to him or not, and is overall a rather weak/unstable class in the Arena.

As you can see, I name a lot of specific cards. I'm only doing this to show that these classes have a high chance of increasing the aggro aspect of their deck by adding class cards to neutral aggro cards. If the new cards released give some other class a good backbone for aggro, you can figure it out and use it.

2. Favorable exchange

Your main task- kill an enemy creature so that you still have a creature on the field, which can then either kill another creature or strike the hero. It is due to this that the advantage on the table develops.

Therefore, the following are valuable in the Arena:

• Creatures with a good hit and a large supply of life (Frost Yeti, Boulder Fist Ogre, Phantom Knight), which are also relatively cheap. Or just creatures that can deal good damage and still survive (Vanguard Commander).

A good blow is from 3 units, since half of the creatures have 3 or less health units. A hit of 4 is generally excellent (two thirds of creatures have 4 or less health). Accordingly, 5 health for a creature is an excellent value. In general, any creatures that have attack or health slightly higher than their cost (one parameter is slightly higher, the other is close to the cost), such as Dark Cultist, Shield Bearer Sen’jin, look decent.

If a creature summons another creature, then for such an assessment you can add up the values ​​of their attack, but only if the summoned creature has more than 1 unit of health (creatures with one health unit most often die from the hero’s ability without having time to do anything). Knight of the Hand - excellent, Razorfen Hunter and Dragon Mechanic - average.

• Cards that leave behind a new creature (Harvest Golem, Slime Belcher, Possessed Crawler,).

• Weapon.

• Cheap and powerful spells like Frostbolt, Fireball, Eviscerate, Swipe and AoE spells like Fire Wave and Blessing. You kill one or more enemy cards with one spell and either thereby keep your creature on the table, or due to the cheapness of the spell you can put out another one.

• Creatures that allow other creatures to make profitable exchanges (Defender of Argus, Sin'dorei Priest, Vanguard Defender, Aldor Peacemaker, Shrinkster, Super Repair Bot). Giving another creature extra health or divine shield will allow it to survive.

The concept of “favorable exchange” can also include a situation where a cheaper card kills a more expensive one. For example, the Old Brewmaster for 4 mana kills the Furious Harpy, which costs 6. Or the Wounded Grunt for 3 kills the Priestess of Elune for 6. After all, for three and four mana you can put another creature, that is, get an advantage on the table. Accordingly, those cards that have parameters below their cost (the Harpy has only 5 health, and the Priestess has 4) are most often a bad choice.

3. Wake up and fight!

Nobody likes when their plans are disrupted. You intended to kill the annoying Juggler with daggers, but then the enemy set up a provocateur, and everything went awry... Familiar to many, but if there were always cards at hand that act immediately after being laid out on the table, this damned Juggler would no longer exist.

So, what cards will allow you to instantly react to the situation, successfully repel the enemy’s onslaught and dictate your own rules?

• Spells of direct destruction or transformation.

• Weapon - the most beautiful thing. Allows you to immediately kill a creature. Saves your creature, since it won’t have to go into exchange. It lasts for at least one more turn (if the enemy doesn’t have an Acid Slug), that is, it’s the same as if you put two creatures at once. But you shouldn't go overboard with weapons.

• Spells that deal good damage and at the same time have an adequate cost. Adequate cost is usually lower than the damage dealt, like Frostbolt, Fireball, Eviscerate, Swipe, etc. An example of a not very good cost is Bite or Lava Burst (actually costs 5 mana).

• Creatures with Charge. This does not mean that you should immediately recruit a thousand Bluegill Warriors and Wolf Riders. They act as an analogue of spells with a not very favorable cost - 2 damage for 2 mana and 3 damage for 3 mana. It’s only worse because they don’t ignore the provocation. However, in general, the cards are not bad and can sometimes help out. One of the best creatures with Charge is Vanguard Commander, as it not only deals its damage, but also remains standing on the field with a proud look.

4. Watch your mana curve

There are cards that I call "delay": Ice Barrier and Ice Block.

9. Don't rely on combos

There’s no need to even explain anything here - the components of the combo may or may not come. Most likely no. Our world is unfair. For example, you may not receive a single “freezing” card for Ice Lance. A furious crowd of murlocs is also not your thing. It is not at all necessary that you will have a mechanism for the Gear Master. Tune in for this.

10. One health point per count

Creatures with 1 life and without any protection (like divine shield or disguise) are bad because they can be destroyed even without using cards - an ability of many heroes. etc.

11. Cards that give your opponent an advantage

A striking example is Closeness to nature. Destroy a creature for just 1 mana. Oh, how I want to, but no. Believe me, you don’t want your opponent to have 2 more cards than you. He will be able to put up two creatures instead of the one killed, which you can no longer deal with so easily.

Another example is the Arcane Golem. An additional mana crystal will allow the enemy to field stronger creatures, which, as a rule, have more health, make profitable exchanges and dominate in every possible way. Of course, if you play a golem on turn 9 or 10, or to deal the final blow to a hero, there will be no negative effect. But if a card comes to you at the beginning of the battle, it will take up space in your hand until that very 9-10th move, and something more useful could have come instead.

Finally, I wish you good luck. You can’t do without it in the Arena =)

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Below we will offer you a wonderful video in which the author will tell you in detail everything about this universal program. But in short, this Hearthstone arena program created in order to track the state of the deck during the game. it is very comfortable. Because with this thoughtful development, you will always have your deck in front of your eyes and will be able to see what else is there, which decks have already gone, which ones you will operate on, and much more.

Many players are interested in the question of where to download and how to set up Hearthstone Deck Tracker? So, on our website we will already provide everyone with a link to this program. And with the help of the video you can easily and quickly set everything up.

Program for selecting cards in the Hearthstone arena

Those who have already tried it from their own experience know that this new product is useful. But the fact that this program for selecting cards in the Hearthstone arena in certain situations is able to predict your further actions will probably be a huge surprise for many.

A huge advantage of this program is its ability to provide general statistics for both you and your opponent.

As soon as you download this program and unzip it (you don’t need to install anything additional), its interface will already have a list of decks and much other useful information that will definitely come in handy later.

Setting up this program is very simple and if, for example, it is difficult for someone to reinstall the language (English first), this can all be easily and quickly resolved.

Did you like our site? Your reposts and ratings are the best praise for us!

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Greetings to the readers of the site. Here is a detailed guide to playing in the Arena. Arena is one of the Hearthstone game modes. This guide is suitable for both beginners and more advanced players.

1. For Arena newcomers

1.1. brief information

Without mastering advanced techniques that are different from the principles used in ranked battles, the arena experience can be very frustrating. In this section, we'll cover the basics of arena play that will help you understand the core principles you need to succeed.

Of course, there is a natural element of randomness when constructing and playing an Arena deck. With the help of this guide, you will be able to make informed decisions, consciously influencing the final result. We don't expect your gaming skills to improve overnight, but we hope our tips will help you find the right path.

1.1.1. Where to begin

When playing in the arena, you have the opportunity to build a deck of random cards and test your skills, luck and knowledge of game mechanics in battle with other players. The first entrance to the arena is free, each subsequent one will cost 150 gold or 66 rubles. The cards you play are not added to your collection, and the collection in turn does not affect your choices. This means that all participants are on equal terms.

1.1.2. Hero selection

Once in the arena, you can choose one of three offered classes. The hero's class determines the set of cards, including random neutral and class cards, offered to choose from when constructing the deck.

1.1.3. Choosing cards for the deck

By choosing a hero, you will have access to 30 sets of random cards, 3 cards in each set. The cards from each set are of the same quality. Once you choose one, you will add it to your deck. By repeating the procedure 30 times, you will have a deck ready to play. The first, tenth, twentieth and thirtieth sets always consist of cards of rare or higher quality, but such cards are sometimes found in other sets.

1.1.4. Arena game

Once you've built your deck, you can start a match with other players. After you press the Play button, you will be matched with an opponent of equal strength. Equality is determined by the current rating and the ratio of wins and losses. Arena fights end if you win 12 matches, lose 3 matches, or leave the arena.

1.1.5. Rewards for victories in the Hearthstone Arena

With each win you improve the key, which opens a chest with rewards after the end of the arena. For each arena played, you can receive 2-5 rewards. The first of these is always a set of cards that almost completely covers the cost of the pass, the others are determined at random and can be gold, arcane dust, an additional set of cards, or individual cards (often gold). The more matches you win, the better the reward will be. We bring to your attention an approximate calculation of rewards (in addition to the required set of cards), but you should remember that they may change slightly.

• For 0 wins you can get 20-25 gold and arcane dust.
• For 1-3 wins you will receive dust and gold, approximately compensating the difference between the cost of a set of cards and an arena pass.
• For 4-6 wins you will receive about 100 dust and gold and will remain a clear winner, having earned the amount spent on the pass.
• For 7-9 wins you'll be able to buy another pass, and you'll also likely get another set of cards and/or an additional card (possibly a gold one).
• For 10-12 wins You will get a lot of gold (up to 500) and additional card sets, but dust is rare at this level.

1.2. When should the battles start?

The results of the arena game, like many things in Hearthstone, largely depend on luck, the chosen tactics, knowledge of the game mechanics and the player’s experience. Since a pass to the arena costs in-game or real money, you need to prepare properly before playing - understand the key mechanics and study the features of the classes.

1.3. Hero selection

Each class has the potential to win if the player is familiar with its intricacies and knows how to use specific cards. It should be remembered that regardless of the choice, the goal remains the same. You need to make the most of the cards you're dealt, create an advantage, and gain or maintain control of the table. By choosing a hero, you also determine your deckbuilding strategy, which requires deep knowledge of the class.

1.4. Card selection

When choosing cards, you need to give preference to the one that provides the maximum value for its cost. However, you cannot look at each card individually. Take into account the mana curve of the entire deck. The curve should be balanced and smooth, i.e. there should be no “gaps” (lack of cards of a certain value).

It should be taken into account that there should be more creatures and spells costing 2-4 crystals, because In the first stage of the game, opponents fight for control and repel enemy attacks that influence the further course of the game. Cards costing 6 or more crystals may be slightly less.

1.4.1. Creature Selection

When choosing a creature, you need to correctly assess its impact on the game situation. In general, the cost of an effective creature should be less than or equal to the sum of its health and attack power. For example, it costs 4 crystals, and the sum of its characteristics is 9, which allows us to consider this creature effective. In addition, other factors need to be taken into account. Creatures with additional effects usually have lower stats or higher costs. Sometimes the effect compensates for this shortcoming (for example, ), sometimes not (for example, ).

To assess creatures as accurately as possible, you will need gaming experience, because... Only during the game can you understand their strengths and weaknesses. Below are examples that demonstrate some of the important features of the creatures.

In the arena, priority is given to creatures with a large supply of health and lower attack power, because... It will be more difficult for your opponent to remove them from the table. Creatures with high attack power deal a lot of damage, but their low health often does not allow them to survive the enemy's first attack, and therefore they have less impact on the game situation. For example, it looks extremely attractive, because... it has an attack power of 5 units. and costs only 3 crystals, but the health indicator of this creature tells us that it will die from any spell, hero power, or attack from another creature (including those that cost 1 crystal). Another example would be. His health reserve is 4 units, i.e. You can exchange most creatures costing 4 crystals for it, and even some cheaper spells ( , 3 crystals).

The exception is creatures with attack power of 3 or less. At a cost of 3 crystals or more, all creatures must have an attack power of 3 or more. The reason is simple: creatures with attack power of 2 or less cannot kill enemy creatures with retaliatory attacks or direct attacks, i.e. In any case, the exchange will not be in your favor.

The same rule applies to class cards. Some of them have outstanding effects (for example, ), while others cannot justify their cost.

1.4.2. Selecting Class Cards

Every arena deck, regardless of the class chosen, should contain several spells that allow you to gain or maintain control. If the remaining cards in the set do not allow you to take an unusually strong creature into the deck (see the previous section), it would be better to choose a spell that gives card advantage or allows you to slow down the enemy’s development.

In any case, you will need spells for the early stage of the game (ie those that cost 1-4 crystals). With their help, you can maintain pressure on the enemy (provided that there is a creature on your side of the field and you do not have to trade it) or seize control by eliminating the threat (even if the trade is equal).

Strong class cards include weapons of paladins and warriors, as well as AoE spells (for example, and ). In addition, class cards are valuable and can be used to obtain additional resources that are valuable mid-match.

1.4.3. Synergy

In general, the synergy of cards in the deck works to your advantage, because... it increases the value of each individual card and allows you to play great combinations. However, an Arena deck should not have cards that only play in a combo unless you already have the other parts of that combo. It is possible that you will never find the components you need, and if you do, competitive options may turn out to be even better. That is why we advise making a choice based on the individual value of the cards. If in subsequent sets you come across other cards for a combination, you can use them.

2.2. Mage

The main advantage of the mage is that the most powerful class cards are basic or of ordinary quality, which means they are most likely to come across when building your deck.

However, it should be noted that with the introduction of new cards, key spells (Fireball, Frostbolt and Fire Wave) are becoming less and less common. That is why, when selecting cards for a magician, we recommend taking any, even suboptimal, spells into the deck (for example,).

2.3. Robber

Thanks to their hero power and a large number of tempo cards that allow them to gain a tangible advantage, most rogues prefer outright aggression to control. Hero Power allows the Rogue to outright win some matches, especially with paladins, where it is possible to profitably trade a weapon that costs two crystals for two recruits that cost a total of four crystals. Rogues often sacrifice their own health to clear the board, so he needs cards to heal. Even if you don't have these cards, you should be aggressive, using your health as an additional resource. Card advantage is achieved through spells such as , and combo cards allow you to maintain a high pace of play and put strong pressure on the enemy.

The main drawback of the robber is its predictability. If you fail to defeat your opponent in the first few moves, you will most likely lose the match.

2.4. Druid

The Druid has a great Hero Power that can be used defensively, slowly accumulating armor, and offensively, effectively trading armor to enemy units. In addition, the druid has access to cards such as , and , which have a huge impact on the game situation at the beginning or middle of the battle.

With the release of the Great Tournament add-on, the Druids received a significant boost. serves the same role as , however, the Fighter does not slow down the rate of development, and you do not have to make up for lost moves, as is the case with Wild Growth. In addition, the Darnassus Fighter can be used for effective trading. Another new and extremely effective card that allows you to strengthen your position on the 4th or 6th turn or lure out an important spell from the enemy.

The main drawback of the Druid is its predictability. As a rule, all druids strive to drag out the match as much as possible by introducing expensive creatures and provocateurs. In rating battles, aggressive druids are very rarely encountered, because... There are virtually no cards that suit this style of play.

2.5. Shaman

Unfortunately, the Shaman's Hero Power triggers randomly, and the totems for the most part pose no threat to the enemy. To effectively use the hero power, you need to completely control the board, which is not always achievable. Shamans have several powerful spells that work in any situation (such as and ), while using other spells ( , and ) requires careful planning. The power of shamans lies mainly in rare cards (for example, and ), which cannot be relied on when building a deck for the arena.

With the release of the Great Tournament add-on, shamans received a number of new features - in particular, and. These creatures allow you to provide a presence on the board in the early stages of the game. - another valuable rare card that serves as a replacement for Bloodlust and, unlike this spell, rarely hangs like a dead weight in the hand.

When building a deck for a shaman, you need to give preference to a variety of buffs. This is how, for example, they can turn useless totems into a tool for effective exchange and create an advantage at any stage of the game. Creatures that strengthen the entire board (for example,) are especially powerful.

2.6. Warlock

It can be argued that the Warlock has the most powerful hero power in the game. He has the opportunity to pick up an extra card at any time, replenishing the supply of a valuable resource. Because of this feature, Warlock decks have a very low curve and are designed to gain a speed advantage. This tactic was developed quite a bit and remains successful to this day.

However, with the introduction of the game, Warlocks began to use control decks with a large number of expensive demons (for example, and ), relying on Summoner's Deathrattle. Even if you fail to get the Summoner, you can still use control tactics by relying on the mid- and high-cost cards introduced in recent expansions.

Since Warlocks often use Hero Power and deal damage to themselves, this is of great value to them. This creature restores as much as 8 units. health, which is equivalent to drawing 4 cards.

2.7. Hunter

Hunters usually perform well in the arena, but they are very predictable because... forced to use aggressive or tempo decks. The reason lies in the straightforward nature of the Hero Power, which only deals damage to the enemy Hero. Even though the hunter has access to crowd control ( , ) and high-cost creatures (), even the most patient hunters will eventually turn to aggression and hit their opponents in the face.

2.8. Priest

2.9. Warrior

The warrior's hero power does not affect the state of the board, so to gain an advantage he needs weapons and strong creatures - for example, and/or. Without them, you are unlikely to win. A mage without a Fireball or Waves of Fire may well win 12 matches, but a warrior without a weapon probably won't.

3. Card selection

In order to help you a little in choosing cards for the Arena, we have prepared for you tables with card ratings for each class:

How to use card rating tables

The links above provide ratings of cards for playing in the arena with all 9 Hearthstone classes. These ratings allow players to make better decisions when constructing decks from random cards. The cards are ordered by cost, which allows you to quickly check the list and make the right choice if necessary.

Selecting the right card

Since in the arena the player always has to choose one of three cards of the same quality, we divided all the cards into 6 different categories, depending on the value for a particular class. It should be noted that within the category, cards are presented in random order. The general rule is that if you have a choice between three cards belonging to different categories, you need to choose the one that is higher than the rest in the priority list. For example, if you are building a Druid deck and choosing between Druid of the Claw (1st category), Crimson Crusader (3rd category) and Goblin Bodyguard (6th category), you need to go with the first option, because without considering the other cards in the deck, Druid of the Claw is the most valuable to you.

When you have two or three cards that belong to the same category, you need to make a decision based on secondary factors (mana curve, deck type, personal preference, etc.) As will be seen below, secondary factors sometimes play a role when considering cards that belong to to different categories.

Exceptions

Since table writers can't know what cards are already in your deck, you shouldn't blindly follow their advice. In addition to the usual cost of cards, the choice is also influenced by:

• mana curve;
• deck type (aggro, control, combo);
• having multiple copies of the same card.

Mana curve

When constructing an arena deck, remember that it should have a smooth curve (that is, cards of different costs should be distributed evenly), with cheap cards taking precedence over expensive ones. Ideally, your deck should have strong creatures for every stage of the game (early, mid, and endgame). Choosing cards without considering the overall mana curve can lead to unpredictable results. For example, if you compile a deck strictly according to the tables, 3/4 of it will consist of cards costing 2 crystals. Individually, each of these cards will be extremely valuable, but you're unlikely to win with this deck.

Thus, when choosing cards, you need to consider their ability to fit the curve. The ideal curve depends on the type of deck. For example, an aggressive deck designed for quick matches should contain more cheap cards and fewer expensive ones, while a “heavy” control deck should contain the opposite. Consider the cards as a whole and maintain a reasonable balance.

Suppose that at the 25th selection step you are offered two cards costing 2 crystals belonging to category 1 and a card costing 4 crystals belonging to category 4, but currently in your deck there are 7 cards costing 2 crystals and not a single card costing 4 crystal. In this case, you should go with the last option, even if, according to the tables, this card is inferior to the other two.

Typically, you can select 15-20 cards without taking the curve into account, and use the remaining 10-15 cards for "smoothing". However, this rule is not strict, and "smoothing" can be started much earlier, especially if the first 10 cards have a very high value.

It is unlikely that anyone can describe all possible scenarios for the development of events, so we hope that we were able to convey the general idea to the reader.

Deck type

When "flattening" the curve, you need to take into account the type of deck you are trying to build. Let's say that in the first stage of deck building you managed to get some excellent aggressive cards, and you decided to stick to fast combat tactics. In this case, all other cards should be the same aggressive (have a low cost, deal a lot of damage or give buffs to existing creatures), and not defensive (taunts, creatures with a large supply of health and low attack power, healing spells), even if they are higher on the priority list.

Likewise, if you want to make certain combinations (such as beasts or murlocs), cards of the desired type will have higher priority than all others. However, it should be remembered that trying to build a combo deck for the arena is rarely successful.

Copies of cards

With each new copy, the value of a single card decreases. For some cards this rule only partially works, because... they are so good that their value is virtually unchanged. Let's say card A is Category 1, but you already have two copies of it in your deck, and the value of the third copy will be significantly lower. This is especially true for situational cards - for example, Experienced Hunter or Mental Technician. Despite the fact that these creatures have excellent characteristics for their cost, their battle cries do not always work. The same goes for some spells (for example, Cleave, which is only applicable if there are 2 or more targets on the enemy side of the board). In other words, the third or fourth spell will most likely be a dead weight in your hand, because... the game situation is unlikely to allow its use.

This is because arena games are usually played proactively, and every card in the deck must follow this tactic. While in some cases a deck with three or more Experienced Hunters can be incredibly powerful, with each new copy you limit your options, i.e. you get new options for roleplaying, not an active move. The same goes for spells. A spell deck can be very effective, but multiple copies of the same card force you to wait for your opponent to do certain things, limiting your decision-making freedom.

Another good example is weapons. As a rule, weapons allow you to kill several creatures at once, organizing a profitable exchange, which strengthens your presence on the board and gives you a card advantage. At the same time, when clearing the board with a weapon, you spend health units, so adding 4 or more copies of the Fire Ax to your deck is far from the best idea. In addition, it will take 2 or more turns to expend weapon charges, which means you will not be able to immediately use other similar cards.

As stated above, this rule does not apply to some cards. Examples include Frostbolt, Pet, and Eviscerate. These are very flexible spells that can be used in any situation. In fact, their value begins to drop after adding 6 or more copies to the deck.

The same goes for strong mid-cost creatures - such as Frosty Yeti, Piloted Shredder or Wraith Knight, because... they are quite strong and influence the game situation at any stage of the match.

Practical application and results

Once you understand the purpose and use of league tables and learn the exceptions to the rules, you will be able to put our tips into practice effectively.

If you've been playing in the arena for a long time, the tables are unlikely to reveal anything new to you, because... you probably have an idea of ​​the value of each card. However, with their help you will be able to make some difficult decisions.

For less experienced players, tables will help speed up the process of learning maps. As a result, you will be able to form your own opinions about them and make decisions based on your thoughts.

Will I be able to create the perfect deck if I strictly follow all the rules?

No! When assembling a deck for the arena, the factor of randomness plays a huge role, i.e. Even if you don't make a single mistake, winning every match is not guaranteed. Every player has losses, it is inevitable.

Can I win X number of times based solely on these lists?

No! Winning or losing in the arena depends not only on the deck, but also on the decisions the player makes on each turn (not to mention luck).

Please note that the distribution of cards by category is not the only correct one. The lists only reflect the opinion of the author, a professional player who was able to achieve an all-time high winning percentage in arena games. In addition, the maximum beneficial effect from each card is achieved only if it is used in the optimal way.

Choosing a class has a lot to do with your play style, which is based on regular class cards and hero power. The starting card selection usually determines the tempo of the deck, because... it is carried out based on their value and the degree of influence on the state of the board. Towards the end of the procedure, the choice depends more on the state of the mana curve.

The first cards must be chosen based on their value, regardless of cost. By using the arena card rankings, you can make decent choices early on, but towards the end, the value of copies of the same cards, as well as cards with the same cost, drops sharply.

For example, if you decide to play a priest and choose , and as the first five cards. You can assume that you have secured a successful game in the final stages of the match, so you need to pay attention to cheaper cards, regardless of their value, otherwise you simply will not get the opportunity to recoup in the early turns. Of course, you would need a second Mind Control or Temple Fighter, but if you have 10 or more expensive cards in the deck, you will have to skip turns, and your opponent will have a huge advantage. Additionally, Mind Control may come into your starting hand and be useless for 10 turns.

3.1. Mana curve

The mana curve describes the distribution of cards by cost. When selecting cards for the arena, it is always necessary to think through the first moves and responses to possible enemy actions throughout the game. There are no specific recommendations for the number of cards of a given cost, but it must be remembered that the first moves are very important for any class. You shouldn't skip them, using only the hero's power, because... During this time, the enemy will have time to create a serious threat.

Below are the most viable arena deck curves.

3.1.1. Curve with emphasis on the final stage of the game (control)

This deck needs to have enough small creatures and cheap spells to survive until the required stage. The main goal is to seize control and slowly build up an advantage.

This curve is suitable for control decks of Priests, Druids, Mages and Warlocks.

3.1.2. Curve with emphasis on early game (aggro)

The alternate curve option focuses on early aggression and very short matches. These decks require a special condition for the finishing blow (for example, a Fireball "in the face" or the ability to break through a large enemy taunt).

This curve is suitable for mage, hunter, warlock, warrior, and rogue aggro decks.

3.1.3. Curve with emphasis on middle rounds (mid)

This deck contains a large number of cards costing 4 crystals, because... Most classes have powerful spells and creatures in this category, allowing you to seize the initiative and effectively control the board.

This curve can be used to build a deck for any class.

4. How to play against a particular class in the Arena

Knowing your strengths and weaknesses greatly influences your decision-making process. Success in arena combat largely depends on the ability to predict your opponent's actions before he takes them and minimize their impact. Next, we will talk about how to deal with opponents belonging to one class or another.

4.1. Druid

Druids have an aggressive hero power, which plays a special role if your deck contains creatures with 1 unit. health. While the decision to field your creature and see it die to a Hero Power seems like a bad decision, most of the time it's not. To succeed in the arena, you need to take the initiative, create a threat to your opponent and lure answers from him.

The most powerful card in the Druid arsenal is. Be sure that the druid will wipe your creatures off the table with it at the first convenient opportunity, so if the druid has 4 mana crystals, do not play 2 or more creatures. If you have a creature on the board with 1 unit. health, but the opponent ignores it - rest assured that the Swipe is already on its way. Trade this creature as quickly as possible so as not to waste it. The exception is situations in which Swipe will consume all of the druid's mana crystals, and he will not be able to seize the initiative by introducing a new threat.

In general, the Druid deck always contains powerful provocateurs and other expensive creatures, which allows you to effectively use silence and direct action spells. Silence is especially effective in the final stages of the game, when you are trying to punch your opponent in the face. Save Silence, or for when you have the opportunity to trade this card for two enemy cards and get an instant advantage at the current stage of the game.

4.2. Hunter

Hunters usually play very aggressively, and when planning moves, you must always take into account the effect of the hero power, which deals a lot of damage. When fighting a hunter, try to seize control as early as possible and show retaliatory aggression.

The hunter's secrets have a huge impact on the game situation. Secrets must be bypassed so that this impact is minimal. An attack with a creature triggers or , an attack from an enemy hero triggers or , and is activated when a creature is played. By analyzing your enemy's actions, you can predict the type of trap.

Let's say that the hunter plays a secret without having any creatures on the board, while you have or. You should attack him with a Novice Engineer. There are several options for the development of events.

If the secret is revealed and it turns out to be a Frost Trap, you will win. You will be able to replay the Engineer, receiving another card and maintaining presence on the table, and the enemy will lose the secret.

If the secret is revealed and it turns out to be Explosive Trap, both of your creatures will die, but since you didn't play an additional creature before attacking, the damage will be minimal. So, you lost the creatures, but since the Engineer gave you the card when you played it, Explosive Trap actually took only the Juggler, and the trade turned out to be even.

If the secret is revealed and it turns out to be , you can kill the bear with the Juggler or remove it from the board in another way.

If the secret is revealed and it turns out to be Redirection, the Novice Engineer will deal 1 damage. damage to your hero (for comparison, the Dagger Juggler would deal 3 damage to you) or the Dagger Juggler who survives. In any case, you will gain card advantage, and your hero will not receive unnecessary damage.

If the secret is not revealed, it means it is a Sniper Shot or a Snake Trap. At this point, you should play a cheap minion to make an equal trade with Snipe (if possible, it should be a Novice Engineer or ) and then use the remaining mana on the hero power. If you play a creature with 4 units. health, it will die and you will waste your turn.

If there is a secret on the field, try different methods of checking one by one so that your losses are minimal. Analyze the possible consequences before taking any action. If you think your opponent is using Explosive Trap, never play minions before attacking.

Currently there are the following mage secrets in the game:

• triggers when using spells.
• also triggers when killing a creature.
• triggers when casting spells on creatures.
• triggers when a creature is killed.
• and are triggered when attempting to attack an enemy hero.
• triggers when the enemy receives fatal damage.

So, in this case, the worst thing you can do is cast Elimination on the Sun Servant. You can stumble upon Anti-Magic or Spellweaver, create several copies of the Sun Servant with Split, or another powerful creature with Scarecrow. This is why it is necessary to check the secret before using spells. Cast Backstab on the Lizard. If the secret works, you will be able to eliminate the Servant and finish off the Lizard with the Bluegill Warrior. If the Spellbinder is revealed as a result, you will be able to kill the resulting creature with characteristics of 1/1 hero power.

If the secret does not work when using the spell, you should place a Bluegill Warrior. Once you receive a Reflected Essence, you can trade creatures or kill an enemy creature with Hero Power.

If the secret doesn't work again, attack the enemy with Bluegill Warrior and see if Turn to Steam appears, because... this is the last secret that can harm you on your turn. If the secret did not work (or the Ice Barrier worked, which does not pose much of a threat), then the magician used an Ice Block.

Spawning can be devastating early in the game, so you should always trade creatures on turn two, even if the trade is unfavorable.

Remember about strong class cards that cost 4 crystals ( , and ). If you manage to get an advantage on the board, you can assume that on turn 4 the paladin will cast Consecration. This means that on the third turn you should not place an additional creature with 2 units. health. Instead, you need to use a creature that can survive an attack from the Hammer of Wrath or the Silver Blade (or with 4 health).

Since paladins have weapons, they must be held in the starting hand (or its equivalent).

The secrets of a paladin usually have less impact on the game situation than the secrets of a mage or hunter, but they also need to be checked and try to turn the situation in your favor.

• - This is the most popular secret used in the arena. It is quite difficult to deal with, but in some cases Vengeance creates opportunities for effective trades.
• triggers from any damage, so if both sides' health is low, but you have an aggressive hero power, try to make sure that the first attack is not too strong.
• - The second most common secret of a paladin. If you have an aggressive hero power (such as a rogue or druid), first try to reveal the secret with it and gain card advantage.
• - a very powerful secret, but a self-respecting paladin would never play it in the presence of a recruit or other weak creatures. However, before the main exchange, you must try to reveal the secret with the weakest creature. Redemption is especially effective when combined with Deathrattles (such as Harvesting Golem) and Divine Shields, as the new creature gains all additional effects.
• - another good secret, the presence of which is checked last. If the enemy's secret doesn't work when attacking, simply play the minion with the lowest health.

At the early stage of the match, it is very important to control the table, because... The paladin is able to significantly enhance small creatures. Also, don't play too many minions that are vulnerable to Consecration.

4.5. Priest

A Priest's Hero Power doesn't do any good if there are no minions on his board. This is why in a match with a priest you need to constantly clean the board. With the release of the Goblins and Dwarves expansion, this rule acquired special significance, because... representatives of this class have access to powerful enhancements that help them preserve their creatures.

In most cases, when fighting a priest, the priority target is . Many players underestimate the importance of this creature, focusing on other, larger targets. If you have a creature on your board that the Priest can use to damage his Cleric and then heal him, kill the Cleric as quickly as possible.

In battle with the priest, creatures with attack power 4 are very effective, because... they are resistant to Shadow Word: Pain, and . When choosing a buff for creatures with 3 attack power, use or C to protect them. Remember that enhancing a creature with 4 attack power. makes him a suitable target for Shadow Word: Pain.

When playing with the priest, try to put maximum pressure on him, but remember that on the fifth move he can clear the board. You shouldn't put too many creatures with 2 units on the field. health.

If the fight drags on, your opponent is probably planning to use Mind Control. Try to bait this spell with creatures you can deal with, then play your most valuable card.

Priests usually achieve victory by killing the enemy with repeated blows from their creatures. This takes quite a bit of time, so your goal is to be as aggressive as possible early in the game. The main source of card advantage is hero power. Don't let the priest heal his creatures by constantly clearing the board.

5.6. Robber

At the first stage of the game, robbers can play extremely aggressively. In addition, they know how to quickly turn a situation around in their favor. If a rogue has a Coin, he will definitely use it for a combo.

Rogues often sacrifice their health in an attempt to create card advantage at the expense of hero power. You can use this fact to your advantage by finishing off the enemy with creatures and spells.

Towards the end of the game, rogues often use , which must be lured out before playing a better card. Allow the rogue to eliminate a large but non-key target.

When playing against a Rogue, stick to aggressive tactics so that he uses his Hero Power with caution.

4.7. Shaman

The Shaman requires complete board control and card advantage to win, so you should eliminate his totems unless there are other, more dangerous targets on the board. At first glance, the monotonous destruction of totems may seem like a futile task, but shaman decks often contain strengthening spells that can create a powerful threat from even the smallest creature.

Towards the end of the game, shamans often use , which must be lured out before playing a better card. Allow the shaman to jinx a large but non-key target.

When playing with a shaman, you can expect the appearance of . Don't give your opponent the opportunity to finish off one of your creatures with an Elemental Warcry. Despite the fact that this creature has a huge impact on the game situation in any scenario, its effectiveness can be reduced by forcing the enemy to abandon the game on a curve.

Always pay attention to the total number of mana crystals your opponent has. If you have an overload effect, you can influence his next move. Taking advantage of this often brings tangible benefits.

The key to victory in a battle with a shaman is an advantage on the board. Do not allow the enemy to place several totems at once, because... there may be . in his deck.

4.8. Warlock

Warlocks are dangerous opponents. Regardless of the deck type, Hero Power helps them gain card advantage.

If a warlock has 4 mana and no minions on the board, he's probably going to use . Take this fact into account and don’t play too many creatures when you have an advantage on the board. Pressure on the enemy with what you have.

In a fight with a warlock, the main problem is . He must be killed on your turn, even if you don't have Silence. Otherwise, the warlock will be able to control the deathrattle of this creature, and the result will be unpredictable. In addition, there is a possibility that the opponent is simply bluffing and does not have any other demons in his hand.

Warlocks often finish off opponents using cards such as , and . If you don't have much health left, play carefully, fight for control and don't try to finish off your opponent as quickly as possible.

If your opponent can freely use a Hero Power, then you're not pushing them hard enough and they're taking advantage of the opportunity to gain card advantage. Expose your creatures, force the warlock to act out so that he does not have extra crystals and health units.

4.9. Warrior

As a rule, in the arena, warriors do not have a large number of cards that allow them to play the game at the final stage of the match, so they strive to end the battle as early as possible, actively using weapons and powerful class creatures. Weapons allow warriors to create card advantage and strengthen their position on the board.

When playing against aggressive opponents, you must be even more aggressive. Most likely, the warrior will try to field as many creatures as possible, effectively trading them and spending health to clear your board with weapons.

Don't forget that weapons can be destroyed.

Warriors have great potential for finishing off an opponent. Unexpected final combinations may include Arcanite Reaper, so try to hold your ground while eliminating all possible threats. Don't try to finish off your opponent as quickly as possible, because the warrior always wins such races.

Remember that the warrior's hero power has no effect on the state of the board, so at the initial and intermediate stages of the game, the presence of creatures on the board will make the battle much easier.

5. Techniques and techniques for fighting in the Arena

When making decisions in arena combat, you need to consider various options and choose the best one. Below we will analyze hypothetical game situations and give advice on how to handle them.

5.1. Trading creatures

Regardless of the degree of aggressiveness of the deck, you should make the most profitable exchange, and not hit your opponent “in the face”, giving him the opportunity to make decisions about the exchange. Constantly clearing the board will help you avoid some of the traps that your opponent is counting on. For example, he can strengthen his creature (then the exchange will be even less profitable) or use an AoE spell.

However, if there are no opportunities for a profitable trade, you can hit the enemy hero directly, forcing him to win back. To make sure this decision is correct, imagine that you have already hit your opponent, and then think about what punishment might follow. If the prospect doesn't seem very attractive, make a trade, and if you can't come up with a viable scheme, attack the enemy hero. The ability to predict possible developments comes with experience. In addition, even the most experienced players often cannot appreciate all the consequences. As examples, let's look at some cards and their impact on the game situation.

• increases the characteristics of an enemy creature from 2/3 to 3/4, it kills your creature, the enemy gains card advantage and on the board.
• Vanguard Defender always gives your opponent card and board advantage if they have a minion that can gain Divine Shield. Don't leave any suitable targets on the board.
• can turn a 2-crystal creature into an effective trading tool, especially if the priest gets the opportunity to use the hero power.
• Weapons (such as ) eliminate your creatures. If you ignored an enemy creature on the board before the weapon appeared, your opponent gained an advantage.
• destroys several creatures at once, and the opponent gains an advantage on the board. If you think he can use Consecration, try to shorten his board as much as possible. The same goes for other AoE spells (Ring of Light, Blizzard, Wave of Fire).

5.2. Finishing strategy

If you have assessed your hand and determined that you have what it takes to finish the match, take your time. For example, if you are playing a mage, you hold two in your hands and see that the enemy has less than 20 units left. health, you can throw both balls “in the face”, ignoring the creatures present on the table. In some cases, this tactic is considered rational and bears fruit, but before rushing into battle, it is necessary to assess the possible risks.

By giving your opponent the initiative when exchanging, you risk losing the advantage that was earned at the previous stage of the game. The results of the exchange may be unpredictable, the enemy will turn the situation in his favor, and you will find yourself in the fool.

When deciding whether to finish off an opponent, several factors must be taken into account.

The composition and curve of your deck. Very aggressive decks are designed for quick matches, i.e. in fact, they do not contain expensive cards. As a result, every major creature your opponent plays will only make things worse. If you think that your opponent has more expensive cards than you, try to finish him off as quickly as possible.

Enemy class and AoE spells available to him. If the enemy may have decent AoE spells, it is necessary to remember the decisions he made before. If he has not used it before, or in situations suitable for this, most likely he simply does not have these cards. Of course, there is a possibility that he just drew the right card, but it is quite small.

Your hand. If you have cards in your hand for a worthy response to a possible threat, hit your opponent in the face. Confidence is added by cards such as silence, strong spells for dealing direct damage, weapons and creatures with dashes. It deserves special mention because... To trigger the effect of this card, you must lower your opponent’s health below 15 units as quickly as possible.

State of the board. If you're way behind your opponent and you know your deck doesn't have any decent tools to correct the situation, hit it in the face, giving your opponent the opportunity to deal with your creatures, and hope to get the necessary spell or creature to finish off.

5.3. Fight ahead

If you fail to finish off your enemy, and he chooses aggressive tactics and attacks your hero without trying to exchange creatures, there are several possible reasons:

• The opponent has a powerful finishing spell or creature and is trying to create a situation in which to use it.
• The enemy does not consider it necessary to spend an AoE spell, because... it provides an unfavorable exchange.
• The opponent doesn't have any good options, and he hopes that the right card will come into his hand at the beginning of the next turn.

In most cases, it will be wise to minimize the risks and trade, but if you think that your next move will be fatal for the enemy, and nothing threatens your life, feel free to attack the enemy hero.

5.4. Refusal to attack

In rare cases, it can be advantageous to give up an attack, but this is a fairly risky move that assumes you have an advantage or reliable means of defense.

Let's assume that you put , and your opponent (the magician) played a secret. Once you're sure it's not a secret (i.e., by putting a weak creature on the field), you can abandon the attack so that on your next turn you can test for Turn to Vapor by attacking your opponent with a weak creature rather than a yeti.

Another example: Let's say you're playing against a Paladin with a Dagger Juggler with a Coin, and your opponent plays a Secret. Most likely, this secret is , and if you don’t have a way to check it (with hero power, a weapon, a creature with a charge), you need to skip the turn and make a more effective check on the next turn.

Some paladins use it on enemy creatures to try to get extra cards. As a rule, such a move indicates the desperate situation of your opponent. If his health is close to critical, there is no point in giving up attacks. If you simply have an early or mid-game advantage on the board, your opponent is likely trying to cheat you out of important spells, so you may want to hold off on attacking until you have an opportunity to make a profitable trade and get rid of the minion with the Seal.

6. Conclusion

Guides and recordings of matches involving other players will undoubtedly teach you to play better, but real success in the arena is unthinkable without the right mindset, which allows you to choose the only correct move from all possible options.

Knowing the strengths and weaknesses of each class is key when building an arena deck. Pay attention to the mana curve and plan your first moves in advance. This will have a positive effect on the quality of the deck. Remember that a decent deck can be made even from random cards. Sometimes the game will offer you cards of excellent and even legendary quality, sometimes you will have to be content with only rare and common cards. Don't blame fate. Study Arena card ratings to develop your own strategy for determining their value and building your deck.

With every match you play, you will acquire new knowledge and sooner or later you will learn to predict the actions of your opponent, paving the way to new heights. Don't believe those who say that luck is everything in Hearthstone. Experience shows that in the end it all comes down to the skill of the player.

P.S. Don't take this guide too harshly. The purpose of the guide is not to give you any clear recommendations, but to give some useful tips and direct your thoughts in the right direction. I will try to supplement and update the information in this article. If you notice any inaccuracies, you can write about it in the comments. Also, you can offer any other information regarding the Arena in Hearthstone that is not in this guide. Good luck!

Welcome site readers! If you're tired of playing Ranked, fan in Casual, look into Free, That Hearthstone Arena- this is something that should interest you. Many players dream of playing eternal arena, getting 7+ arena wins, getting "free" boosters and some extra gold, but the biggest dream of players is getting 12 arena wins. And they can be understood, because they will receive the maximum reward. Therefore, in this article we will talk about: “ How to get 12 wins in the Hearthstone arena?»

What will make your deck 12-0 in Arena?

All cards can be divided into 5 main categories:

• Removals(such as Master Hunter, Fireball)
• AoE/strong cards that can turn the game around(Swing cards) (Destructive Elements, Fire Wave, Mental Technician)
• Adding cards(Cult Leader, Sacred Vigil)
• Treatment(Earth Servant, Ancient Healer)
• Legendary cards(Enemy-4000, Ragnaros)

Let's start with removal. The average 12-win deck has more than 3 removal cards. Considering how difficult it is to get removal in the arena and how easy it is to get a common minion, we can definitely see the fact that getting them early in the draft is a good idea. Most removal spells can serve a variety of purposes. For example, Starfire can be used to destroy a creature, damage a creature, and draw an extra card.

The average number of AoE spells or strong cards that turn the game (Swing cards) is 1.61. This category is very variable. Some decks have no AoE at all, and some have as many as 5 of them.

Analyzing 12 winning decks, the average number of cards to draw is somewhere around 2 (2.21), but there is an interesting trend that we will talk about below.

The number of treatment cards is not surprising. Equal to 1.24, we can summarize that the number of healing cards in decks is between 1 and 3.

Legendary card stats may be surprising to some players. Less than 30% of decks have any kind of legendary card. Which means that in order to create a strong winning deck, it doesn't mean it has legendary cards.

Decks with a lot of cards in one category usually have a lot less cards in other categories, which makes sense. If you have three Fire Waves, two Polymorphs, two Frost Bolts and a Fireball, then you don't even worry about how much draw or healing you have.

But on the other hand, if you have a lot of healing and AoE, then you won't worry about removal and draw.

Types of winning decks

Knowing all these points, decks can be divided into main categories:

1. Synergy based decks.

This category is based on powerful card combinations that will be difficult for the enemy to defend against. For example, once such a combination was Force of Nature + Wild roar. Or, for example, decks based on murlocs.

But it's worth noting that such decks make up only 4% of the 12-win decks analyzed.

2. "Powerful" decks

The most obvious item on this list. When people show off their impressive set of cards, you can notice that at least 1 good legendary card and a decent core deck helps in this list. This type of deck benefits from constant pressure with its threats on the board and on the opponent, which are simply impossible for the enemy to cope with. Strong “carcasses” with equally powerful effects will help you win in the arena if you have the opportunity to play them.

22% of all winning decks can be described as "Power" decks, but what's most interesting is that only 11% of 12-0 decks fall into this category!

3. Well built deck

Finally the last category, which includes decks that are simply well made in their own right. They make up the majority of these winning decks (74%). Well-built decks always have a little bit of everything. This does not mean that a deck must include cards from all 5 important categories in order to be considered well constructed. The most important thing is what will be played on Turns 2, 3 and 4. The path to victory is good exchanges and strengthening the board. Remember this!

Frequently appearing cards

Most of the decks we see have cards that appear all the time. again and again. A whole galaxy of Vanguard Defenders, Dagger Jugglers, Flame Juggler and cheap weapons like the Storm Axe. Their strength is what they have
the ability to destroy an enemy creature without your own death and all this for a low mana cost. Once you and your opponent have both placed your 2-mana creatures, the “activate free trades” stage begins. or Sin'dorei Priest- are perfect for this role. They not only save you from death during a trade, but can also strengthen your creature to destroy a stronger threat.

Cheap weapons that appear in winning decks often include Bold Raider.

The next time you're building an arena deck, look for early game/mid game creatures that will help you make trades without losing the creatures themselves. This is essential for getting a good score in the arena.

12-0 vs 12-x

The most interesting thing you noticed during the study was how different 12-0 decks are from other 12-win decks. Take a look at the infographic below and compare how many cards there are in each category.

So it turns out that all the “goodies” of the deck: more legendaries, more removal, more healing, AoE and strong cards - do not have such a good effect on the final result. How did this happen?

We think that you noticed the fact that one of the categories was not included in the infographic, namely the average number of cards that provide additional cards in the deck.

The difference is obvious. A 12-0 deck has almost 2 times more cards that provide draw, which means that if you have less removal, AoE, healing, you can get all this thanks to the accelerated rebuilding of the deck. This makes the deck more solid and flexible. And if you have great cards in your deck, you might not even see them because you're not drawing extra cards. If you have enough cards to draw, you will get your strong cards faster and reduce the number of “bad” cards in your hand. Your opponent with a weaker deck will have a hard time dealing with your threats, your hand will be exhausted and you will steal the victory.

Best mana curve

Another area where decks differ is the mana curve. It is worth noting that both types of decks are practically the same in mana cost, but 12-0 has a slightly lower mana cost.

Your mana curve should be built around cards that cost 3 mana and 4 mana, because... It is these moves that show how much you win this game. Keep this in mind when building your next deck!

What did we learn from the article?

Our eyes are focused precisely on which deck you have adopted.
Try to build a deck that focuses on early game and board control. The most important moves are move 3 and move 4 .

Give your preference AoE cards and removal. When you get the key cards/strong cards of your deck, then focus on drawing. If you end up with a slow deck, then healing and AoE cards will save you.

Take cards that will allow you "for free" exchange with other creatures. (Vanguard Defender or Sin'dorei Priest).

Cheap weapons and early removal are much more effective than big threats because if you lose the board in the early game and mid game, you'll die before your big minions get on the board or do anything at all.

Designed Lillyfloria